Sunday, May 6, 2012

ABCs of Teaching English in Ethiopia


Fifteen students make up the class at Mercy Ministry Happy
Children's Home in Asko, Ethiopia. The children are mostly
age 5, but I'm learning that a few are a bit older. They
arrive at school and change from their street clothes into
these, their "school uniform."

On my first full day in Ethiopia, I was able to observe Robin and Beza (BEE-za) in the classroom. There are 15 children, mostly aged 5 but a couple appeared to be a bit older. 
Robin began class with recitation: ABCs in particular. Keep in mind that English is a second language for these kids so pronunciation of some of the letters reflected volunteer instructors from around the world: for example, “Z” is “zed,” as in Canada. Somehow “L” is pronounced “EL-a”; “M” “EM-a” and “N” comes out as “EN-a.” Theory: I think this may be a result of singing the alphabet (do it in your head … when you come to L-M-N-O-P, it does sort of mumbles together into “elemenopee” and if you’re 5, that could easily become EL-a, EM-a, EN-a. Hmmmmm … can I fix that? Does it matter?).
Robin then held up flash cards, one after another through a tall stack, with short words (“cat,” “hat,” “bat”); she’d clearly organized them into rhyming sets. Beza, the full-time teacher for the school, sat on the sidelines and participated in Ahmaric only when the kids gave a blank stare to Robin; otherwise she seemed focused on her fingernails or cell phone. “CAT!” the children would yell to Robin. “HAT!” “BALL!” Their joy seemed to come from the musical chorus they created with each word.
It was clear within ten minutes of observation that poor Robin was winging it.  I quickly became intent on getting a sense of how much English the kids understood and where they were in their development of words, phonetics, numbers, etc.
The recitation went on for almost an hour. At 10:30 a.m., Beza looked at Robin and tapped her watch, indicating that it was time for “recess.” Fifteen little bodies dressed alike in dirty, holey blue T shirts and shoes that resemble Crocs dutifully lined up at the door and in single file, anxiously headed out to the courtyard.
This isn’t what I’d envisioned: I expected to be more of a teacher’s aid to support whatever curriculum was already in motion (my American perspective). Robin looked to me with eager eyes: “Are you a teacher?” she asked with a tone of desperation.
I’m sure my eyes widened. “No!” I replied. Her shoulders slumped a bit in disappointment. “Have you been doing this for a month?” I inquired. “Coming in here every day and winging it? No help from the teacher? No direction?”
“Yes,” she replied, forlorn. She was tired and no wonder … anyone who has worked with kids knows how exhausting it is, both physically and mentally. Couple that with a sincere desire to teach and add value to their lives with few tools and no direction … I wondered how she’s done it! How has she managed to keep her motivation?!
“We can fix this,” I said as encouragingly as I could. “I may not have an education background, but I’m organized. And they’re 5 years old. We can do this.” Her relief was evident.
Robin and I meandered outside to sounds of laughter, coughing, screeches of glee. Abete (ah-BEAT-ee), a round-headed boy with eager eyes, stood out to me as he initiated handholding in a circle and led the others in a song in Ahmaric (not Ring Around the Rosie, but seemingly similar). A few children sat in the dirt along the concrete-block wall that barricaded us from the dirt alleyway outside. Others ducked one at a time into a wooden shed that I learned to be their bathroom. Beza sat on an overturned bucket and watched.
“Any toys? Any organized games?” I asked. Robin clearly had been reminded of something, ran inside, and returned quickly with a long stretch of elastic that had been tied into a loop.
“I got this in town!” she exclaimed. The children ran toward her, arms outstretched to retrieve the elastic, which they promptly fashioned around their legs to play some form of Chinese jump rope.

When the children arrive in the morning, they go into
this small room off the courtyard to change from their
street clothes into their school uniform. They also take a
nap in this room every afternoon after lunch at 1:00.
I meandered into the children’s changing/nap room to rummage around for any play equipment and found a filthy cloth ball on top of a cupboard; I brought it outside. Again, the kids ran toward me as if I delivered Santa himself. I worked at organizing the group into a large circle, realizing quickly that English wasn’t going to go far here; further, everyone wanted to be the one holding my hand: I noted their dirty clothes; how flies landed on their head, yet they didn’t seem to notice; how goop ran from some noses; and many eyes watered. They seemed untroubled, laughed, and clamored for my hands; I gripped whatever boney fingers landed in mine and resumed my effort to impose order. Beza lifted herself long enough to bark orders in Ahmaric and the kids promptly formed a rough circle. With difficulty, I shook my hands free and held the ball high in the air: “My name is DEBBIE!” I said, then tossed the ball to a child thinking that I would start a name game. Instead, three or four children rushed the ball as it rolled outside the circle. Fakodu (fah-KO-doo) victoriously delivered it back to the group. They’re 5, I reminded myself. They don’t speak English. The name game clearly wasn’t going to take off so I punted and we spent 10 minutes or so passing the ball “fast!” and “slooooowwwww,” “high!” and “loooowwww,” “behind” our backs and “under” our legs. They caught on and I insisted that the words be repeated over and over as the ball went round the assemblage.
At 11:00 on the dot, Beza called out and the students filed back into the room. They sat themselves in assigned seats at small tables crammed along one side of the room. I had a sense from their obedience that they’d been going through the same routine over and over for at least the month of April, but what before that? What had the other volunteers taught them? How much had they learned since their school year began in September? How would I know where to pick up the thread if I had no way of understanding where it began?
The second session focused on math. Robin had made some worksheets to practice subtraction. White plastic chairs swallowed their tiny inhabitants; one table was propped with shims to remedy the wobble. Two smaller desks had attached benches and were more suitable to their size. Each head bowed with gratitude as pencils were handed out. I jumped in to help a small group; we counted drawings of fish and crossed out the ones to “subtract.” How many remained? A couple kids got it. I used poker chips to help Bahalid (ba-HALL-id), who could count on request, remove the correct number of chips as instructed by the formula, but couldn’t seem to grasp “how many are left” and would simply count all the chips again. Kalid (KAL-id) colored over his numbers in. Yabsra “Small” (there are three Yabsra’s in the class, “Yabra Small,” “Yabra Girl” and “Yabsra Boy”) copied the numbers from the equation into the answer box. Another few kids added rather than subtracted.
Beza helped a different group and Robin the remainder. The three of us jostled five kids apiece, each child seemingly at a different level of understanding. A few finished: “Miss! Miss!” they would call, waving their paper in the air for approval. Some did this after every number they wrote on the page. Hewit (HUE-it) and Lemlem—probably older than 5—finished long before most and were instructed to color in the pictures of the objects others were still counting.
An hour. We hobbled through a single worksheet for an hour.
This wasn’t going to work, I thought.
At noon, the children lined up again to wash their hands for lunch, served in the classroom. Afterwards, they would nap until 2:00 p.m., then have “crafts” from 2:00 to 3:30 p.m. Between jet lag and mental fatigue, I was whipped and it must have showed: “Maybe you’ll want to take a rest?” Robin asked compassionately. I did. My head was spinning with all I’d taken in and ideas on how to get some control over the direction of their learning. I went to my room to lie down, feeling a little guilty for leaving Robin after her month of carrying the load on her own and reassuring myself that I’d just catch a quick nap and return to help.
By the time I woke up, the children had returned to their street clothes and were trickling out the blue steel gate to greet their mothers.
NO favorites but Abete ... oh my goodness. What a little charmer. Rediet is the cook's daughter ...
she's kinda a pain in the butt and needs boundaries but when she's at the house during the day
(we haven't figured out why she's there some days and not others), we try to include her in
lessons, although we often don't have a worksheet for her. Getting photocopies has been a
challenge; more to come on the topic of school supplies and lesson planning. Note the farm
animal stickers on the back of their hands. :-)

Saturday, May 5, 2012

How to Use the Toilet







As I said, there is no running water in Asko, the small town outside the capital of Addis Ababa. Consequently, when you turn on the tap, nothing comes out. When you turn on the shower, nothing comes out. And, logically, when you flush the toilet, it doesn't flush. Easy enough (for anyone who's been camping) to figure out how to work around the shower and sink, but the toilet is an adventure of its own.


My toilet in Mercy Ministry Home.
Note orange bucket of water with green cup to right.
Note yellow waste can to left tucked behind toilet a bit.
The ceramic pad to the left is the shower floor.
First: Squirt the antibacterial gel all over the toilet to clean it as best you can. Challenge: No toilet paper!

Before First: Borrow toilet paper from Robin:
Toilet paper from a store (therefore wrapped).
Cost ~7 Birr (52¢), which is pretty expensive;
a cab ride for about 3 miles cost 16¢.
Obviously worth it to an American like me
but not likely a high priority when food is a daily issue.
Next: Bring orange bucket down three flights of stairs to outside water source:
Outside water source.
We don't actually know from where it originates …
not collected on the roof, not sure why plumbing is exposed. Suffice it to say, we don't drink it. 

Fill bucket:
Filling the toilet-water bucket. The green plastic
pan to the left is where Buza, the cook, washes
our dishes. The green plastic pan to the right is
left under the tap when it's not being used.
After hauling the full water bucket back up three flights of stairs, pee or poop (as necessary). Note in the first picture that there isn't a lot of leg room between the toilet and the wall ... personally, I don't sit down, so am performing a bit of a contortionist act. Too much information, I'm sure, but I really want you to experience what I'm experiencing ;-).

When business is finished, wipe sparingly (particularly if you're low on TP) and NEVER throw the toilet paper in the commode; that's what the yellow bucket to the left of the toilet is for! Yep. Always.

To finish: use the green cup to scoop water into the commode; usually takes two scoops to force pee down but might need a whole bucket for other business, which of course means I need to go back downstairs to refill the bucket so I'm ready for the next time. There's no point in using the water sparingly because it will only get through the system as far as the water you use will carry it, so to avoid smells, I use as much water as I think necessary and suffer the chore of bringing more.

I am not yet completely clear on where the sewer water goes.

Washing hands? Well ... the water brought in the bucket is the same water used for cooking and washing dishes so I rinse my hands in that and then squirt with antibacterial gel.

Robin Keenan


Robin Keenan from Australia is the only other volunteer
here and she's been here since April 1. We ran into
Magadee from Mercy Ministries on our way to town.

“Helllllllllo??!!” I heard a woman’s shrill voice call from the hallway outside my bedroom on my first morning in Ethiopia. I detected an Australian accent.
            “Come in!” I responded eagerly. I knew that another volunteer, Robin Keenan, had been at the Mercy Ministry Happy Children Home since April 1; Global Volunteer Network had put us in touch but I had only heard from her a couple times during the month of April, the first time almost a week into her stint: “I can't wait to have some company,” she wrote. I didn’t know the woman but I sensed a bit of desperation. “I have been in the house on my own each night, with power failures 5 out of 7 nights. I am staying in a hotel in Addis for the weekend. It has free Internet, running water, hot showers, and toilet.”
            Ummm … gulp.
            Robin and I met at my bedroom door and I gave her a hug. She seemed as happy to have a stranger in the house as I was to meet a stranger at the end of my journey.
            “Just a minute,” I said, shooting one finger in the air; I ran back into my room, jostled around inside my suitcase, and retrieved a giant Hershey bar. I could feel through the foil wrapper that it was broken to pieces from the trip but handed it to her with a sympathetic grin: “Here you go. Sounded like you could use this.”
            Robin’s 54 years old, tireless, industrious, motherly in just the right amount. She laughs easily at herself and most any situation. Her personal life situations have somehow culminated to her providing the same answer as I to friends who ask: “So … why do you want to go to Ethiopia?”
 “I don’t know, exactly,” is her response, same as mine.
And here we are, the both of us.
Robin arrived at Mercy Ministry Happy Children’s Home after a 2-week tour on her own in Egypt. After Ethiopia, she’s scheduled to “holiday” for another 16 days in Kenya, Uganda, and Rwanda.
Clearly she’s nuts.
Perfect.


Friday, May 4, 2012

Where I'm Staying

For the duration of my stay in Ethiopia, I'll be staying at the Mercy Ministry Happy Children Home. They have two rooms upstairs, one for men and one for women; unfortunately for the home, the economy has put a big hole in their volunteer pool; fortunately for me, I have my own room. There is one other volunteer here: a 54-year-old woman from Australia who has been here since April 1 by herself. As she's pretty settled into the larger room (with three bunk beds) and its own bathroom, I figured I wouldn't disturb her.

Mercy Ministry Happy Children Home:

My room:

View from bedroom window:

Bathroom in volunteer quarters at Mercy Ministry Happy Children's Home. No running water, therefore sink, toilet, and shower don't actually work. :-) More on that to come.

Beza cooking the kids' lunch in the house kitchen. Notice the Quaker Oats on the counter! YAY! (Yes, oatmeal is exciting. BONUS: I had some raisins from my flight to add to it. :-)




I Wish I Had Brought …


I Wish I Had Brought …
  • ·      The über-powerful insect repellent for fabrics that JT gave me [she said as a stealth mosquito buzzed in the vicinity]
  • ·      The dryer sheets Jan gave me to deter mosquitos [I was out of dryer sheets at home and left them for Brittany Stevens who’s staying at my house while I’m away. Listen! When you're standing in your warm house with Netflix on in the background and your dog making you snicker and  clean water coming from your tap and a car in the garage and a roof that doesn't leak, it's hard to imagine that you'll really need insect repellent and dryer sheets!]
  • ·      Multi-vitamins [because on Day 1, I’ve eaten a roll; peanut butter; another roll; some lentil [?] soup; rice; an Odwalla bar from home {19 left}.]
  • ·      Toilet paper [because there ain’t any; I can buy when I get to a store]
  • ·      My slippers [I think I just killed that mosquito, although I don’t have evidence.]
  • ·      More chocolate [a few Hershey kisses … what was I thinking …]
  • ·      Antibiotics [only a slim chance of me escaping sickness in my estimation given the runny noses, lack of sanitation, my newly realized propensity to rub my eyes, which burn and tear most of the day …]
  • ·      Dr. Suess books
  • ·      A scented candle
  • ·      Listerine
  • ·      Clorox Wipes


I Hope I Don’t Run Out of …
  • ·      Anti-bacterial gel


I’m Grateful for …
  • ·      Friends’ text messages
  • ·      Teachers
  • ·      Running water [drinking fountains and flush toilets included]
  • ·      Internet
  • ·      Paved roads
  • ·      Showers
  • ·      Anti-smog requirements on vehicles
  • ·      Copy machines, printers
  • ·      Anti-bacterial gel
  • ·      Fruits and vegetables
  • ·      My iPhone
  • ·      Power converters
  • ·      The solar light the Trujillos (Tehachapi Rotary) gave me
  • ·      Dressers and shelves
  • ·      My lavender-filled lamb, just like Solay Tyson’s, which I brought with me and had just gotten at Ceago Vineyard in Lakeport
  • ·      Being quick-on-my-feet with kids
  • ·      Eyob’s passion to give kids a chance ... and their only pair of shoes. Yikes.

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

What I Learned Riding to Asko


The Mercy Ministries Happy Children’s Home is about 9 km (5.6 miles) outside of Addis Ababa (the capital of Ethiopia) in the town of Asko, about a 30-minute drive on account of construction and bad roads … pretty hard to tell the difference between the two, really.

Random things I learned from Eyob on our journey:

It’s not really 2:00 a.m.
I noticed that Eyob had two clocks set in his Toyota: one blinked 2:24 and the other 12:24. I inquired.
            “It’s not 2:24 a.m. right now,” he began.
Ethiopia has its own time, two 12-hour periods each day that distinguish “light” time and “dark” time: what we know as 6:00 a.m. begins the first 12-hour period and what we know as 6:00 p.m. begins the second. So (stay with me), what we know as “noon” is 12:00 p.m., but in Ethiopia, “noon” is 6:00, six hours after the light period began.
            “It is 8:24,” Eyob said.
This did not explain his clocks and my befuddled mind dropped it.

It’s not April 30, 2012, either.
So if you’re going to change time, you may as well change the calendar, too. In Ethiopia:
They have a 13-month calendar
12 months each have 30 days
The 13th month is an accumulation of the extra days and is only 5 days long (6 days in leap year)
Their new year begins on September 11
Also … it is 2004 here. Egypt, Eretria, and Ethiopia follow a different calendar.
So, Eyob explained, I arrived not on 4/30/12 but 7/30/04.
My brain began to seize.

The Home has been challenged getting volunteers in the current global economic situation.

It is customary for people to urinate in the streets.

Stop signs are generally optional, at least at 8:24 dark.

Gasoline is $10.22/gallon.

I believe all that Eyob learned on the way to Asko is that it’s not necessary to pronounce the “T” in “castle.” You’re welcome, Eyob.

First Hurdle: Skateboards

After a 13-hour flight to Istanbul, I had to run through the Ataturk Airport to catch my flight to Addis Ababa. Consequently, I didn’t have time to browse around the Duty Free shop to find an HP printer that the Center said they needed. I was able to receive texts (THANK YOU!) but couldn’t connect to the WiFi, so just nibbled an apple I’d brought until my flight boarded.
            I had slept for 7 hours on the previous flight (that after watching We Bought a Zoo and A Dolphin’s Tail) so didn’t want to sleep on this leg as I’d be arriving in Ethiopia after midnight. Alas, having three seats to myself was too much luxury to resist lying down to snooze again.
             Arriving in Ethiopia late at night may have had some advantages; the airport seemed to be deserted except for the passengers from our arrival, so immigration went quickly. No one asked how much money I had, why I was there, nor whether I’d had the appropriate immunizations.
            Next stop: luggage claim. As soon as I glimpsed the carousel, I saw a skateboard box making its way around! Yay!! I grabbed a cart and in no time had collected all 5 boxes and my one bag. Off to customs.
            Despite having just loaded almost 200 pounds of boxes onto my kart, I had to heave them again onto a short conveyor to be X-rayed; this was the final hurdle to getting the boards into the country. I pushed my kart to the other end of the machine to find a woman wearing blue surgical gloves surveying whatever the X-ray machine revealed; a uniformed Ethiopian man calmly arguing with an agitated Frenchman regarding the purpose of some metal parts that looked like disk brakes; and a disheveled, lethargic bunch of officials off to one side, lounging across chairs and talking among themselves amidst tossed wrappers and pitched jackets. Seeing that no one was looking for my attention and the boxes piling up as they were extruded from the X-Ray, I began restacking the boxes onto my kart.
            “Nuh, nuh,” the woman grunted, waiving a blue finger at me. “Two. Inspect.”
            “Okay,” I thought to myself, smiling cooperatively and nodding politely. “Casual … act casual.” I reminded myself that there were skateboards in the boxes, not contraband. I suspected that these were the boxes into which Tim Ward had packaged with the skateboard trucks, which likely drew attention from the distrustful machine. The uniformed officer, while dodging the Frenchman’s flailing arms and angry spittle, called over an official from the gaggle on the sidelines, who dragged herself up reluctantly as if being aroused from bed and without the use of words, clearly instructed me to put the dubious boxes on the table.
            “Skateboards,” I said stupidly. Unimpressed, she rummaged through a drawer for an object sharp enough to break open the packaging tape that had thus far done its job restraining the contents of the box from Arizona to Tehachapi to Los Angeles to Istanbul to Addis Ababa.  After dull piece of metal proved useless and a ball-point pen snapped into innumerable pieces, keys from her pocket did the trick and pink foam peanuts flew out as the box exhaled. “Skateboards,” I repeated.
            I pulled a set of wheeled trucks from the fluff and positioned them on the board, running my hand across them to mimic their purpose. She returned my performance with a blank stare. Speaking seemed the only solution: “They’re used skateboards from America,” I explained, pointing out the wear on the bottom as I frantically tried to recall an email from Jon Burns instructing me point out their use so they wouldn’t be suspicious that I was bringing them for resale. What else had he said … something about their “friend” in customs whom I could ask for if I got stuck. What was his name … “They’re for Ethiopian children,” I beseeched, boldly closing the box on her searching hand to point to a shipping label I’d made for their transit that both visually thanked Turkish Airlines for sending them at no charge and showed a picture Jon had send of children happily clinging to a skateboard. That was the ticket: a smile broke across her face. She called to another official to come look and collaborate, I think, her gut instinct that this was no problem. He uttered back a few words. “No problem,” she confirmed, smiling respectfully then returning immediately to her posse.
            Yay!! Relief! I happily karted my skateboards out of the airport, past solicitous taxi drivers, and into the tiny, blue Toyota Corolla of Eyob Mamo, the volunteer coordinator for Mercy Ministries Happy Children’s Home who greeted me with excellent English and the charm of someone who wasn’t burdened with  collecting me at 2:00 o’clock in the morning. 

Eyob and the skateboards. It was when I inspected this photo on my phone to ensure it met my expectations that it crossed my mind, “Wait a second … where is my bag?” Yeah. In my excitement, I left my suitcase at the X-Ray machine! Ha ha! And because nothing is simple at airports, I had to run back across the barrier road (which, as you might guess, drew the attention of security); enter through “Departures”; go back through security (yep, shoes off, phone in separate container …) and wind my way backwards through the airport to find my lonely Ogio bag, undisturbed and waiting patiently for my return.